Jenny Lake ranger Cody Evans on the North Ridge of the Grand on 7.21.20
On the Grand and other high peaks, snow is melting out rapidly and conditions on many routes are now dry and nearly snow free. An ice axe is no longer warranted above the Lower Saddle for popular routes like the Owen-Spalding and Lower and Upper Exum. The fixed line is now being utilized by most parties to approach the Lower Sadle. It is primarily melted out, but snow remains at the base of the lines where an additional fixed rope provides some security. For experienced parties familiar with the approach, an ice axe and/or crampons are no longer needed. Be mindful of changing conditions on rock climbs at higher elevations and shady aspects following recent storms. The Owen-Spalding, for example, has been dry in recent days, but new precipitation and cold temperatures can produce verglas and icy conditions that may be difficult to navigate without the proper equipment. When in doubt, bring the gear.
At higher elevations, expect snow to linger in typical problem areas and shadier aspects, with potential for wet rock and verglas on north and west facing walls in particular. Parties interested in completing the Cathedral or Grand Traverses should expect steep snow navigation in spots, wet rock, potential for icy conditions, and other alpine challenges.